God, I can't believe I'm saying this.. but I miss the EPL.
Showing posts with label fun. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fun. Show all posts
Thursday, November 06, 2008
Monday, October 20, 2008
X Marks the Spot
Thursday, October 16, 2008
9 Things to Do in Vietnam
As any long term (be it two week or two months) blogger in Vietnam is wont to do, here is my obligatory "things to do in Vietnam" post.
1. Go get your hair washed
A lot of guidebooks that write about Vietnam gush about the affordability of it all. I would generally disagree with this - yes, it is easier and cheaper to live comfortably here, but this country is certainly not cheap, but maybe that is because I've been to China a few times and compare Vietnam's prices to there.
Most everything here is cheaper than the US, but also most everything here is more expensive than in China. But that makes sense, for they were all made in China! So you won't find much in the way of inexpensive goods, but you can find mind-blowing deals (if you're used to US prices) on services.
Housework, chauffeur and childcare services are insanely cheap in comparison, and about equal or less than China even. But the average tourist isn't gonna use such services.
Instead, take in the affordable and very Vietnamese luxury of getting your hair washed. The hair salons in Vietnam do more business providing hair washes than they do in actually cutting hair. They'll also provide other expected services, such as mani- and pedicures, Asian style services, such as earwax picking, face washes, and clothed massages. If you look real hard I'm sure you can find places that provide other services, but I'm pretty blind on that account.
A hair wash can be 50k or less. Just remember to tip. If you don't like to get your hair wet then go get a foot massage.
2. Enjoy the herb
I don't me the sticky sorta herb, but rather the panoply of SEAsian herbs that are virtually part of every local meal here. In the US, even at decent Vietnamese restaurants, you're limited to generic things like cilantro, mint and thai basil. Here, there is so much more, half of which I can only identify by smell and taste. Out of all the food products in Vietnam, I think I'll miss the basket of herbs the most. The main reason I like to eat seafood on the streets here is because of the herb mix that comes with it.
3. Go to the beach
I haven't really travelled around all that much in Vietnam, but I've been to some of the beaches here and they're definitely worthwhile. With its long coastline, Vietnam has a whole host of beaches to choose from - some are small and desolate (Sam Son), some are wide, crowded and dirty (Vung Tau), and some are pretty and peaceful (Cua Dai). Sure, it probably doesn't compare to Thailand, but life is pretty good whenever you have sand between your toes while swigging a beer, looking over the sound of crashing waves to the sun peeking over the horizon.
4. Get some clothes made
Before making this recommendation, a few caveats: custom tailored clothing is much cheaper in China (about 50% less), and labor costs here are cheap. Why is the latter a warning? Due to cheap labor, the concept of measure twice, cut once isn't employed here in Vietnam.
In all my dealings with the local labor pool, I find that folks are generally careless and error-prone. At first I attributed this to a lack of work ethic. But I've slowly come around to the thought that such errors are due to cheap labor. It costs so very little to rectify mistakes that it doesn't make sense within the local work culture to spend extra resources upfront to minimize mistakes.
It's sorta like the low-cost manufacturing facilities in China and elsewhere - it is cheaper to make 100 items with a 5% defect rate than 95 items with a 1% defect rate. If you engage in the former, you'll pay less and get more good product.
So, even though you should expect mistakes in your tailored clothing, and even though it isn't the cheapest in the world, why do I suggest getting clothes made here? Because you'll likely end up looking pretty good when all is said and done.
Most Americans, myself include, wear off the rack clothing that is just too big for us. The locals, men and women, almost regardless of age, wear clothes so tight fitting, it would make Fredrick's of Hollywood proud. So the tailors here are geared towards a more fitted, slimmer cut that ends up more flattering, no matter the customer. Just make sure to emphasize that you want a more comfortable fit, or else you'll end up with some nut-hugger pants.
A dress shirt made in D1, depending on the fabric choice, costs between a regular off-the-rack Brooks Brothers shirt and the same shirt on sale. But the fabric and the cut will be much better.
5. Go to the mountains
As a country geographically oriented like Chile, the beaches are on the forefront of a tourists' itinerary. But if you want something slightly different, head to the mountains. Places like Fan Si Pan (the highest point in Vietnam), or Dalat or Tam Dao. One of the best times we've had was when we visited Tam Dao.
Of course there is Sapa also. But be aware of the "Sapa Curse" - it's a relatively well known and well subscribed to phenomena amongst the locals. People say that if you go to Sapa, which is home to the ethnic minorities such as the Hmong and Yao, the women there will put a spell on you and you won't leave until you end up marrying a local ethnic minority and taking them back to the city with you.
It may be an old wives' tale, but I've heard of business colleagues who went to Sapa on vacation, disappeared for months, and returned with a Sapa wife. And I personally know of a long term Hanoi ex-pat who met and married his wife in Sapa.
6. Play some golf
If you're an American golfer, you have got to play some golf when you're in Vietnam. The courses here are generally in very good condition, but besides that, having a caddy is just something that needs to be experienced. Sure, most of the caddies are not the sort that you would rely on for tournament golf, simply because, unlike the States, the average caddy here does not play the game so their knowledge of it is limited. But if you've thanked the inventor of the Izzo dual-strap, then you'll appreciate someone else humping your bag around the course.
Again, remember to tip, because they get very little, if any, part of the "caddy fee" that is on your bill. Locals tip between 100-200k per 18 holes. I find that the local HCMC players tip more generously than their Hanoi brethren, so pay attention to where you're playing.
7. Go nhau
"Nhau" - it's a very Vietnamese word. Loosely translated, it means go out drinking, but it's not really that. "Go out drinking" sounds more like something you do on a Friday, Saturday, Sunday (and Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday) night while in college.
1. Go get your hair washed
A lot of guidebooks that write about Vietnam gush about the affordability of it all. I would generally disagree with this - yes, it is easier and cheaper to live comfortably here, but this country is certainly not cheap, but maybe that is because I've been to China a few times and compare Vietnam's prices to there.
Most everything here is cheaper than the US, but also most everything here is more expensive than in China. But that makes sense, for they were all made in China! So you won't find much in the way of inexpensive goods, but you can find mind-blowing deals (if you're used to US prices) on services.
Housework, chauffeur and childcare services are insanely cheap in comparison, and about equal or less than China even. But the average tourist isn't gonna use such services.
Instead, take in the affordable and very Vietnamese luxury of getting your hair washed. The hair salons in Vietnam do more business providing hair washes than they do in actually cutting hair. They'll also provide other expected services, such as mani- and pedicures, Asian style services, such as earwax picking, face washes, and clothed massages. If you look real hard I'm sure you can find places that provide other services, but I'm pretty blind on that account.
A hair wash can be 50k or less. Just remember to tip. If you don't like to get your hair wet then go get a foot massage.
2. Enjoy the herb
I don't me the sticky sorta herb, but rather the panoply of SEAsian herbs that are virtually part of every local meal here. In the US, even at decent Vietnamese restaurants, you're limited to generic things like cilantro, mint and thai basil. Here, there is so much more, half of which I can only identify by smell and taste. Out of all the food products in Vietnam, I think I'll miss the basket of herbs the most. The main reason I like to eat seafood on the streets here is because of the herb mix that comes with it.
3. Go to the beach
I haven't really travelled around all that much in Vietnam, but I've been to some of the beaches here and they're definitely worthwhile. With its long coastline, Vietnam has a whole host of beaches to choose from - some are small and desolate (Sam Son), some are wide, crowded and dirty (Vung Tau), and some are pretty and peaceful (Cua Dai). Sure, it probably doesn't compare to Thailand, but life is pretty good whenever you have sand between your toes while swigging a beer, looking over the sound of crashing waves to the sun peeking over the horizon.
4. Get some clothes made
Before making this recommendation, a few caveats: custom tailored clothing is much cheaper in China (about 50% less), and labor costs here are cheap. Why is the latter a warning? Due to cheap labor, the concept of measure twice, cut once isn't employed here in Vietnam.
In all my dealings with the local labor pool, I find that folks are generally careless and error-prone. At first I attributed this to a lack of work ethic. But I've slowly come around to the thought that such errors are due to cheap labor. It costs so very little to rectify mistakes that it doesn't make sense within the local work culture to spend extra resources upfront to minimize mistakes.
It's sorta like the low-cost manufacturing facilities in China and elsewhere - it is cheaper to make 100 items with a 5% defect rate than 95 items with a 1% defect rate. If you engage in the former, you'll pay less and get more good product.
So, even though you should expect mistakes in your tailored clothing, and even though it isn't the cheapest in the world, why do I suggest getting clothes made here? Because you'll likely end up looking pretty good when all is said and done.
Most Americans, myself include, wear off the rack clothing that is just too big for us. The locals, men and women, almost regardless of age, wear clothes so tight fitting, it would make Fredrick's of Hollywood proud. So the tailors here are geared towards a more fitted, slimmer cut that ends up more flattering, no matter the customer. Just make sure to emphasize that you want a more comfortable fit, or else you'll end up with some nut-hugger pants.
A dress shirt made in D1, depending on the fabric choice, costs between a regular off-the-rack Brooks Brothers shirt and the same shirt on sale. But the fabric and the cut will be much better.
5. Go to the mountains
As a country geographically oriented like Chile, the beaches are on the forefront of a tourists' itinerary. But if you want something slightly different, head to the mountains. Places like Fan Si Pan (the highest point in Vietnam), or Dalat or Tam Dao. One of the best times we've had was when we visited Tam Dao.
Of course there is Sapa also. But be aware of the "Sapa Curse" - it's a relatively well known and well subscribed to phenomena amongst the locals. People say that if you go to Sapa, which is home to the ethnic minorities such as the Hmong and Yao, the women there will put a spell on you and you won't leave until you end up marrying a local ethnic minority and taking them back to the city with you.
It may be an old wives' tale, but I've heard of business colleagues who went to Sapa on vacation, disappeared for months, and returned with a Sapa wife. And I personally know of a long term Hanoi ex-pat who met and married his wife in Sapa.
6. Play some golf
If you're an American golfer, you have got to play some golf when you're in Vietnam. The courses here are generally in very good condition, but besides that, having a caddy is just something that needs to be experienced. Sure, most of the caddies are not the sort that you would rely on for tournament golf, simply because, unlike the States, the average caddy here does not play the game so their knowledge of it is limited. But if you've thanked the inventor of the Izzo dual-strap, then you'll appreciate someone else humping your bag around the course.
Again, remember to tip, because they get very little, if any, part of the "caddy fee" that is on your bill. Locals tip between 100-200k per 18 holes. I find that the local HCMC players tip more generously than their Hanoi brethren, so pay attention to where you're playing.
7. Go nhau
"Nhau" - it's a very Vietnamese word. Loosely translated, it means go out drinking, but it's not really that. "Go out drinking" sounds more like something you do on a Friday, Saturday, Sunday (and Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday) night while in college.
It's not really that. It's probably more akin to 'getting a pint' - but I dunno, I'm not from a commonwealth country.
No matter the proper translation, you should go out and nhau, especially with some locals. It's practically a way of life here. It's fun to sit on some plastic stools, grab some peanuts and Vietnamese style bar food (i.e. stir fried stuff that you can share and/or eat with your hands) and drink the local beer. Don't worry about getting too drunk - for all the bravado of the locals, by and large they don't drink all that much. When locals drink, they end up drinking more ice water than actual beer.
8. Slow down and look around
Visitors pretty much hang in the cities of HCMC or Hanoi, and longer term ex-pats definitely count these cities as their main stomping grounds. The only comparison to these places are other Asian cities (well, perhaps S.America, Africa and the Middle East.. but I've never been). It's crowded, it's hectic, and there is so much going on.
But once in a while, just pump your brakes and slow down. Really look at your surroundings, and the people that inhabit it. Take it all in and connect with this time, this place.
I am not talking about observing folks and passing judgments, ascribing some sort of bs quiet nobility to the poor and the working poor.
Unlike most American cities, you can see all of Vietnam from virtually any street corner here. So slow down and breathe in the beauty, the warts, the frustrations, the wealth and poverty, the yearning, and the humanity of it all. This is current day Vietnam looking back at you, so take it all in before looking away.
9. Leave
At the end of it all you should leave. You weren't raised here, you don't have many ties here, you're not really from here. A life spent with an updated passport and a visa needing to be renewed yet again is a life in limbo.
Stay too long and you'll end up like the well-worn caricature - a bitter, whiny, complaining, ugly foreigner. Do yourself a favor and leave. Or marry someone local. I hear the weather is nice this time of year in Sapa.
No matter the proper translation, you should go out and nhau, especially with some locals. It's practically a way of life here. It's fun to sit on some plastic stools, grab some peanuts and Vietnamese style bar food (i.e. stir fried stuff that you can share and/or eat with your hands) and drink the local beer. Don't worry about getting too drunk - for all the bravado of the locals, by and large they don't drink all that much. When locals drink, they end up drinking more ice water than actual beer.
8. Slow down and look around
Visitors pretty much hang in the cities of HCMC or Hanoi, and longer term ex-pats definitely count these cities as their main stomping grounds. The only comparison to these places are other Asian cities (well, perhaps S.America, Africa and the Middle East.. but I've never been). It's crowded, it's hectic, and there is so much going on.
But once in a while, just pump your brakes and slow down. Really look at your surroundings, and the people that inhabit it. Take it all in and connect with this time, this place.
I am not talking about observing folks and passing judgments, ascribing some sort of bs quiet nobility to the poor and the working poor.
Unlike most American cities, you can see all of Vietnam from virtually any street corner here. So slow down and breathe in the beauty, the warts, the frustrations, the wealth and poverty, the yearning, and the humanity of it all. This is current day Vietnam looking back at you, so take it all in before looking away.
9. Leave
At the end of it all you should leave. You weren't raised here, you don't have many ties here, you're not really from here. A life spent with an updated passport and a visa needing to be renewed yet again is a life in limbo.
Stay too long and you'll end up like the well-worn caricature - a bitter, whiny, complaining, ugly foreigner. Do yourself a favor and leave. Or marry someone local. I hear the weather is nice this time of year in Sapa.
Monday, October 13, 2008
Weekend Eats and Other Stuff
I got the above from Little Manila, which also has a full fledged outlet in PMH. What captured my fancy on the menu was the whole fried Tilapia, for 45k. Not bad, especially for an aircon food court. The entirety above was like 120k.
I don't know if it's a Filipino thing, or if it was just prepared incorrectly, but when the menu said "whole fish" I didn't really expect a whole fish, guts and all. Maybe someone can enlighten me. Save for the guts, the rest of it was pretty good.
It's been a long while since I've had pizza in Vietnam. It's one of those 'why bother' foods for me in this country. As in, why bother eating it when you can wait for the next trip home. But I was lazy and therefore wanted delivery. Ordered from Pepperoni's in the backpacker area, and it was delivered in about 20 minutes to the CBD. It was pretty decent, considering where I was eating it. This large, 8-slicer good for about 2 adults was 110k or so.
I've been on a chao kick recently; here is the way they serve it at this particular Chinese joint on Nguyen Trai, which is one of the places in HCMC to grab some late night food after having your fill of beer.
Of course, once in a while one has to do "work," so I attended the grand opening of the first HCMC branch of Tien Phong Bank, which may be more commonly known as the bank FPT (with some others) started.
I didn't do anything but watch the proceedings, yet it was freaking exhausting. Whomever thought to have a protracted outdoor ceremony in the midday sun in Vietnam should really rethink their event planning skills.
But the expected dragon dance was still cool.
It was late, the restaurant was starting to shutter its operations for the day, so the older lady who owns the place broke out her Wii to get some tennis in. This was more amusing to me than the drunk dude below.
Some dude by the name of Thirsty has been stalking me. Here he is rolling on a moto, smoking up a cigar.
Tuesday, October 07, 2008
Top Gear in Vietnam
Jezza and the boys of Top Gear are/were? in Vietnam to film a segment for their show. Wha!? This is more interesting to me than Brad and Angelina... I wonder if they are still in HCMC, or if they've already booked out of town on their rumored motorcycle tour.
Monday, October 06, 2008
Vacation Martini
Only ok, as it was kinda watery. This place, Sandy Beach Resort, in Danang, Vietnam, caters to a mix of local and foreign tourists, but I was still surprised that they knew what a proper martini was on the first go around.
Other than that, the service sorta sucked at this resort. Good location, indifferent service = go to Hoi An Beach Resort when you are visiting Danang instead.
Thursday, October 02, 2008
TIps for Vietnam Travel
As my days invariably wind down here, I've accumulated a bunch of (ok, a smidge of) local knowledge, with no avenue to apply it. May as well throw it up on the blog for others to use.
Money/Exchange Rates:
One tip for establishments where they allow you to pay in VND or USD - ask what the exchange rate is. And then decide, 'ok, if I were to sell USD today, would I sell my dollars for that much in VND?' It makes the decision to pay in VND or USD much easier, as I'm generally confused if it is a good thing or a bad thing if the exchange rate is 15,900 versus 17,900 (answer: it depends on what currency you have in your pockets).
Weather:
I know some people say that it actually gets cold in Vietnam, but my experience has not borne it out. Lived in Hanoi for an entire year, and I'm coming up to an entire year in Saigon as well. It does get slightly chilly in the fall/winter in Hanoi, but one can venture about in shorts and tshirts still, even if one does not feature the obligatory Northern American layer of organic insulation.
When folks say that Saigon is rainy, well, that they are correct on. It rained like a mother late summer to early fall this year. I mean, crazy amounts that kept me cooped up inside.
Travel/Immigration/Customs;
The in-bound customs officers are really anal about you bringing in laptops. HCMC's customs folks seem to be more difficult than their Hanoi brethren.
Recently I travelled abroad with two laptops, and then returned with two laptops. And they wanted me to pay customs duties on the second laptop. This is after I had paid fees to bring in these laptops the first time, although those monies didn't end up in the government's coffers, as detailed here.
My obstinance prevailed, and I didn't pay anything; the customs folk made me write onto the customs declaration form that I brought in two computers, and warning me that I will have to take with me two computers when I next leave the country, or else I would have to pay duties then.
Let me back up and explain the customs process. Upon entering Vietnam, the flight attendants will give you a two part white customs form (for foreign passport holders). You declare items you are bringing in and the like, just like other countries. Upon landing, at passport control, they review your customs declaration, stamp one side of the form, keep the stamped part and then return to you the unstamped part. When you collect baggage and leave the airport, the x-ray your baggage, reconfirm the customs form, stamp it and return it to you. When you next leave the country, you are required to submit this customs form that you are required to keep all this time.
So instead of paying more duties, I wrote down that I have two computers on the customs document, and they allowed me to leave. I don't plan to leave with two computers and, because this is Vietnam, I don't plan to be required to pay any duties upon leaving.
First off, the customs guys were lazy and didn't stamp the part I kept. Second, Hanoi is much more lax with the customs procedures than HCMC. When I flew in and out of Hanoi, I never returned the second part of my form upon exit of the country, because I didn't know it was a requirement. They just give you a new form to fill out. These forms are lying around all over the place in Noi Bai airport.
Long story short, I got myself a blank form and will give the customs folks an unadulterated declaration statement upon leaving - if they complain about the lack of an official stamp, well, the explanation that it was never stamped by the lazy customs officers will be readily accepted, because they know that such lack of rigor is common.
The tip is, when you fly into the country, grab extra blank custom forms from the flight crew. Just tell them you made a typo on your form. Then keep it handy, just to have options. You know, just in case you need to forge shit.
If I really wanted to import shit, not get caught by customs and sell under the radar, I would bring in wristwatches. Vietnamese people are bling'n ballers yo, you can easily unload watches costing tens of thousands here. I cannot think of a more gauche manner to launder money in Vietnam.
But before reading the below, head over to Miss.Adventure's Guide to Living in Vietnam. This blogger just recently concluded her time as an expat in Vietnam, but the archives are informative.
Anyhow, here's what I would add:
Money/Exchange Rates:
One tip for establishments where they allow you to pay in VND or USD - ask what the exchange rate is. And then decide, 'ok, if I were to sell USD today, would I sell my dollars for that much in VND?' It makes the decision to pay in VND or USD much easier, as I'm generally confused if it is a good thing or a bad thing if the exchange rate is 15,900 versus 17,900 (answer: it depends on what currency you have in your pockets).
Weather:
I know some people say that it actually gets cold in Vietnam, but my experience has not borne it out. Lived in Hanoi for an entire year, and I'm coming up to an entire year in Saigon as well. It does get slightly chilly in the fall/winter in Hanoi, but one can venture about in shorts and tshirts still, even if one does not feature the obligatory Northern American layer of organic insulation.
When folks say that Saigon is rainy, well, that they are correct on. It rained like a mother late summer to early fall this year. I mean, crazy amounts that kept me cooped up inside.
Travel/Immigration/Customs;
The in-bound customs officers are really anal about you bringing in laptops. HCMC's customs folks seem to be more difficult than their Hanoi brethren.
Recently I travelled abroad with two laptops, and then returned with two laptops. And they wanted me to pay customs duties on the second laptop. This is after I had paid fees to bring in these laptops the first time, although those monies didn't end up in the government's coffers, as detailed here.
My obstinance prevailed, and I didn't pay anything; the customs folk made me write onto the customs declaration form that I brought in two computers, and warning me that I will have to take with me two computers when I next leave the country, or else I would have to pay duties then.
Let me back up and explain the customs process. Upon entering Vietnam, the flight attendants will give you a two part white customs form (for foreign passport holders). You declare items you are bringing in and the like, just like other countries. Upon landing, at passport control, they review your customs declaration, stamp one side of the form, keep the stamped part and then return to you the unstamped part. When you collect baggage and leave the airport, the x-ray your baggage, reconfirm the customs form, stamp it and return it to you. When you next leave the country, you are required to submit this customs form that you are required to keep all this time.
So instead of paying more duties, I wrote down that I have two computers on the customs document, and they allowed me to leave. I don't plan to leave with two computers and, because this is Vietnam, I don't plan to be required to pay any duties upon leaving.
First off, the customs guys were lazy and didn't stamp the part I kept. Second, Hanoi is much more lax with the customs procedures than HCMC. When I flew in and out of Hanoi, I never returned the second part of my form upon exit of the country, because I didn't know it was a requirement. They just give you a new form to fill out. These forms are lying around all over the place in Noi Bai airport.
Long story short, I got myself a blank form and will give the customs folks an unadulterated declaration statement upon leaving - if they complain about the lack of an official stamp, well, the explanation that it was never stamped by the lazy customs officers will be readily accepted, because they know that such lack of rigor is common.
The tip is, when you fly into the country, grab extra blank custom forms from the flight crew. Just tell them you made a typo on your form. Then keep it handy, just to have options. You know, just in case you need to forge shit.
If I really wanted to import shit, not get caught by customs and sell under the radar, I would bring in wristwatches. Vietnamese people are bling'n ballers yo, you can easily unload watches costing tens of thousands here. I cannot think of a more gauche manner to launder money in Vietnam.
Thursday, September 04, 2008
Dong Nai Noodles
After an average round at the Dong Nai Golf Resort - a bit distant from Saigon and the course had too many unnecessary white stakes along the edges of the fairway - I had this bowl of beef noodles in the clubhouse.
A lot of golf places sell you instant noodles, so this hearty fare was well appreciated by my tummy. I was glad another session of après round goat hot pot was voted down.
Song Be Golf Course
Went to Song Be GC, which is just about an hour and change from D1, at least if you have a 630am tee time.
First time there for me and I managed to shoot a Vietnam PB. The course is pretty solid and it has probably the nicest clubhouse in the south.
This picture is the walk off 18 into the clubhouse.
Friday, August 08, 2008
Beijing Opening Ceremonies
So I'm living in the future.. 'cause I just saw athletes' procession at the Beijing Olympics opening ceremony. I'm watching it on Vietnamese TV because CCTV is not covering it for some reason.
It's funny not watching it on NBC. You don't get Bob Costas (or whomever is doing it this year) prattling on about the countries, pulling out random facts to beat you over the head with the fact that they are smarter than you (when in truth it's all about the research interns). The local coverage for the most part is just comprised of announcing the country and the number of Olympic participants from said country.
Some delegations are crazy small.. like two people worth. Most of these countries coincidentally also served as set pieces for Survivor. I think China had 600+ Olympians.
The Vietnamese broadcaster didn't really say much about any of the countries until it got to the former Soviet Bloc - he was talking about Sergey Bubka when Ukraine was announced. I guess all the communist countries know each other.
A few interesting things from this 2008 Long March:
- Taiwan used it's IOC flag, not it's country flag
- Taiwan and Hong Kong got similar, hearty receptions from the crowd
- Russia's reception was close to Taiwan and HK's
- the USA got a nice crowd react, a bit less than Russia
- may be my American sensibilities, but Iraq also got a nice applause
- Sweden's outfits paid homage to the Beijing games in that the women were in Qipaos (cheongsam) and were carrying folding paper fans
- Yao Ming is freaking tall; he waved that flag like some sort of robot
The locals also did a live translation of the Chinese opening games speech into Vietnamese. Dang, that female translator is good!
Monday, May 26, 2008
Outlook Interview
I've been reading these "On The Stool" features in Timeout magazine, a 40 page or so weekly magazine insert in the local English language weekly business paper, Vietnam Investment Review.
I would never do a real 'interview,' mainly because I am not famous enough to warrant one. Plus, I don't want my picture in the paper. But of course, with this power-to-the-people-by-way-of-blog-publishing-even-though-no-one-reads-ya, I can participate. Here are my HCMC tinged answers:
Name: D.
Age: older than 50% of the local populace, at least
Nationality: USA
Occupation: Middleman
A job.
What is keeping you here?
Said job.
Where do you go to escape?
Any of the local golf courses, which are better than my 'home' courses.
What do you miss about home?
Family, natch.
...what don't you miss?
How the daily news, in all its forms, is so US-centric.
How do you get around town?
Shoes, or taxi.
Shoes, or taxi.
What's your favorite Vietnamese word or expression?
Du me.. j/k!
Du me.. j/k!
What's your favorite local dish?
Banh cuon.
Banh cuon.
And what gives you a bellyache?
What was your most embarrassing moment in Vietnam?
...and the last?
What's your hidden talent?
...and 10am on Sunday morning?
Your show-stopping karaoke song of choice?
What will you call your memoirs about your time in Vietnam?
Baba, definitely baba.
Favorite street/place to watch traffic?
Because I walk, everywhere. Though I end up watching lots of traffic in the massive intersection outside Ben Thanh Market.
What was your most embarrassing moment in Vietnam?
I asked a dinner companion "Co la nguoi Saigon, ha?" - she, her husband (whom I earlier called "anh," correctly mind you) and a fourth local cracked up for five minutes before it was explained to me and/or I realized that I should've called her "chi." Of course said Chi is rumored to be sitting in a Hong Kong jail on money laundering charges these days. This little story probably summarizes a lot of my Vietnam experience.
What tickles you pink?
Seeing the local Vietnamese happy.
What makes you go "Oi gioi oi...?"
Non-native Vietnamese speakers saying "oi gioi oi." It just sounds... I dunno how to express it.. it's just.. oi gioi oi.
Non-native Vietnamese speakers saying "oi gioi oi." It just sounds... I dunno how to express it.. it's just.. oi gioi oi.
Who would be the first person you'd invite to your birthday party?
Family, natch. A particular family member.
...and the last?
Family that I don't know, but who knows me. Or this Vietnamese defense attorney I met who defended Gary Glitter. Toss up, really.
What's the quickest way to spend a VND1 million?
Bottle of liquor at a pub/club/whatnot.
What's your hidden talent?
None, because I'm a braggart.
What Vietnamese person do you most admire?
Folks, who toil on the streets for their daily bread, passing the parked Bentley or Rolls or Maybach without giving the same a swift kick in the name of socialism.
What do you want to be when you grow up?
Old, retired, with a lower handicap. Rich would be good too.
What's in your pockets right now?
Phones- this is Vietnam, right?! - a wallet with US credit cards and identification that I never use here, and some VND all folded akimbo.
Where would we find you at 10pm on a Saturday night?
Probably drinking somewhere.
...and 10am on Sunday morning?
At the Him Lam driving range.
Your favorite nocturnal beverage?
That would be a martini, Bob.
Your show-stopping karaoke song of choice?
Ice, Ice, Baby?
What will you call your memoirs about your time in Vietnam?
Um, VA to VN has a certain ring to it.
Who will play you in the film adaptation?
School yard friends have said, alternately, that I look like Christian Slater, Keanu Reeves or Emilio Estevez. So one of them. Did I tell you I went to a school for the blind?
...and your dying words?
Fuck.
Saturday, May 03, 2008
Another Holiday
This past week saw another holiday season here in Vietnam, with the April 30th (Reunification Day) and May 1st (May Day - e.g. equivalent to the US Labor Day, but for the rest of the world) holidays falling mid-week. That basically meant that everyone was off of work.
The ex-pats professionals mostly took off and hitched flights out to visit home and family in their distant lands. Locals took this time to hit the beaches, or to return to their provinces in case they missed it during the last Tet season. I took this time to work a bit, and to, naturally, hit the golf course.
Went to Vung Tau's Paradise Golf Course with a group of friends. We drove, so I didn't get a chance to take the hydrofoil to Vung Tau, which is probably the highlight of any Vung Tau trip. It was a rainy, semi-miserable day, so I kinda felt bad for the Saigonese who made the trek to Vung Tau for their miniscule, but proximate, beaches. As for us, we would golf in torrential downpours, so the weather wasn't much of a bother.
The Vung Tau golf course is reputedly the oldest course in Southern Vietnam - the oldest is supposedly Dalat G.C., which is in the central. This course is the junkiest course I've played in Vietnam, and is on par, conditions-wise, with average municipal courses in the States. I wouldn't come back, but it was neat to play right next to the ocean.
Monday, November 05, 2007
Best Advertisement in Vietnam
Local media buys are sloppy, lazy and derivative. This advert, which runs prior to the opening credits at the movies, is pretty funny.
This was recorded about one month after it started to be shown locally. The first few times the audience saw this, the entire theater laughed. Or at least giggled a bit.
The joke is lost on ya if you don't understand Vietnamese, and never dialed a busy cellphone here. Basically, the adcopy, in the tone and style of a Viettel busy signal announcement, says 'the person you are calling is unavailable because they are sitting in a movie theater, please call back later.'
This was recorded about one month after it started to be shown locally. The first few times the audience saw this, the entire theater laughed. Or at least giggled a bit.
The joke is lost on ya if you don't understand Vietnamese, and never dialed a busy cellphone here. Basically, the adcopy, in the tone and style of a Viettel busy signal announcement, says 'the person you are calling is unavailable because they are sitting in a movie theater, please call back later.'
Tuesday, October 02, 2007
Chi Linh Star - Golf Tournament


So this past weekend I played in a golf tournament at Chi Linh Star Golf Course, reputedly the toughest course in Vietnam. The tournament was organized by Vietnam Golf Magazine - one of two (that I know of) golf publications in Vietnam. For a country of a few thousand golfers (reportedly 4k local golfers), there is sure a lot of resources catering to this demographic.
Played with some friends that I met on cyberspace, and all in all we all had a good time. Played horribly for many reasons but mainly it was the Indian, not the arrow(s).
Chi Linh itself was a real nice course; not as nice as Tam Dao (which is shiny and new and gets less play), but nearly so. The course didn't seem too difficult - they had smaller greens, a few with multiple tiers, and the superintendent kept the greens firm and no overly receptive to average shots. The design is ok in my book.
The best thing about Chi Linh however is the drive there. It is a similar distance from Hanoi's CBD as the other course, but the drive was on the best highway I've been on in Vietnam. Divided, two lanes, with a shoulder and a medium amount of traffic. And unlike a lot of large roads around here, this highway did not cross into a hamlet every 5km, forcing the traffic to slow and account for four-way intersections. What a revelation, and what a comfortable 1.5 hour drive.
Saturday, July 28, 2007
Free Hug Day

This Saturday morning my office internet was down for a bit (one of the drawbacks to working in a foreign country that has an antiquated infrastructure - still, no exploding transformers under roads though). So I did what everyone else in this country would do - head to a nearby cafe and mooch their wifi.
Being me, I had two criteria: hassle free wifi and air conditioning. Headed to the closest Highlands Coffee, en tete of Ho Guom (aka Hoan Kiem Lake). Unfortunately they only had the overhead fans on, and were pretty empty too. Instead of wondering if one led to the other condition, I just booked and decided to walk down to Ciao Cafe, which is on the other end of the lake.
Power walking along the concrete banks of the lake, I saw the interesting sight above. There were about 50+ kids, probably college students, who all increasingly look younger as I age, a curious development we are all seemingly afflicted with, in a few disparate groups advertising free hugs. They were carrying both English and Vietnamese signs and attracted the tourists wandering around the lake as well as passing moto riders.
For a country that does not have public displays of affection, this was a light and lovely situation to behold. These kids were 'taking advantage' of the unspoken exception to the social opprobrium against PDA - that of the "public parks exception."
Day or night, in any park space, be it large areas like Lenin Park, or small tiled squares serving as a public plaza, you will see locals - teens, twenty-somethings, sometimes folks pushing parenthood - draped on each other, engaged in activities usually left to darkened movie theaters or back staircases in the high schools of one's youth. You witness more action in the local parks than in the Hollywood blockbusters imported here, mainly because the latter are censored a bit.
Anyhow, I refused the free offer but did get a chuckle to start my day. This all happened around 8:30 am on a Saturday morning. Don't these kids know the benefits of a hangover?
Wednesday, November 15, 2006
Tone Deaf Karaoke
As you would expect, karaoke is popular in Vietnam. It is often the topper to an evening out with the entire staff for businesses (neé enterprises, in the local English vernacular). It is of course popular here in the States too, but to a lesser extent. It seems to be bifurcated here - college kids and hipsters goofing and having fun and pre-AARPs belting tunes in their living rooms.I'm a very reluctant karaoke artist, and VA is thankful for that. She accuses me of being tone deaf. Today, I have response, with proof, that I'm not tone deaf, I just don't sing well. I took this online Tone Deaf Test, courtesy of the personal site www.JakeMandell.com, who's a med student with a musical background. 69.4% puts me in the upper tier of "good musical ability."
[via LifeHacker]
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