Showing posts with label blogroll. Show all posts
Showing posts with label blogroll. Show all posts

Saturday, November 15, 2008

I'm Audi 5000

One of the last things I did in town before jetting out was to hit the Audi launch event in downtown Saigon.  They were opening the first official Audi showroom in Vietnam, and showing off their A8 and Q7 vehicles.

I had neither the inclination nor the means to purchase a car, so I fit right in with the crowd.  I met the typical Saigon crowd at this thing - the wealthiest folks I met that night was probably the pair who tired of checking out the cars, the models, the cocktail waitresses and instead were closely examining the HVAC controls of this new building.  Just another night in Saigon.  But the champagne was nice though.  

So I'm out.  This is my view these days - it's not an Audi, but it's close.      


For continued interesting tidbits about the expat experience in Vietnam and Southeast Asia, check out those on the blogroll, in particular:
Tam Biet!

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Subprime Problem in Vietnam?

This blog is mostly about the food that we eat in Vietnam, my quest to find a really decent martini and playing some bad golf in some beautiful settings. To feed all those cravings, in my non-blog life I'm usually thinking about how to make money.

As an inveterate New Yorker, some of those ideas have been of the illegal kind - such as taking advantage of all the young local idiots who have no concept of online fraud and therefore they post their personal information and bank account numbers (!) all over the internet. But thankfully I'm preoccupied with morals to proceed any further.

Given the current world economic climate, I've pondered a bit about the problems in the US (Overselling the Subprime Problem, Market Meltdown Hysteria), which, for all intents and purposes is a confidence issue. Banks do not trust each other, so they do not lend to one another = no money sloshing through the system to lubricate the economic engine. All this talk of doom and gloom in the US is fun and games, sorta like the perverse pleasure of picking at a scab, but optimism will prevail as more people will make more money selling optimism. I'm confident enough to have recently put my 2 cents behind XLF - check back in 6 months to see how that goes.

Spurred on after reading B. Hawkins Pham's post, "The New Look of Saigon," on Saigon Blues, I thought more about why at this point I'm not as optimistic in Vietnam. There are a host of reasons, the main one being that the down global market, and in particular the down US market, makes Vietnam comparatively less compelling. Life is relative, and so are economic opportunities.

As part of the doom-and-gloom trade, business commentators in the US are quick to cite thing such as the WSJ's estimate that 1-in-6 homeowners are underwater (i.e. owe more on the mortgage than the current fair market value of the house). While this is certainly not a good thing, is this really that bad? Surely, housing occupies a certain mindspace for housing consumers - likely a combination of being the largest purchase, the largest asset, the largest debt for the average person - it is still a purchase.

As long as folks can make payments, being underwater affects their psyche, but it does not mean that everyone will suddenly become homeless. "Underwater" - sounds scary and threatening, and meant to evoke the idea of drowning, but for nearly all purchases on credit you will be underwater.

Did you just buy an iPhone with a Visa card, or that shiny new aluminum Macbook? Guess what, you're underwater. Does that matter to you in that setting? No, not really. So too housing. 

Or take a look at most folks' second largest consumer purchase, an automobile. The auto trade is tanking right now, but historically (I'm young and naive enough to mean the past 15 or so years), 90+% of the folks who buy a car finance, and they on average put about 15% down. For the average consumer in the average car, with the well known phenomena of 'drive off the lot depreciation,' that means that the auto is instantly underwater. Where was that doom-and-gloom talk over the past decade? Non-existent. 

As a business/investment climate, the worse America gets hammered, the worse Vietnam becomes.

But that's not to say there are no issues here. As a relatively closed economy, Vietnam is not directly affected by the supposed US Subprime issue because banks here did not buy US debt and derivative instruments. The effect is an indirect one, caused by lowered FDI commitments and, more importantly, lowered actual FDI inflows.

But the banks here have a Vietnamese style subprime problem - that of non-performing loans (NPLs). The credit system here is relatively rudimentary and is based more on an antiquated asset-based lending standard than a modern cashflow-based lending standard.

If I was a lender, I would favor the cashflow outlook, because at the end of the day I want to know if you'll have the money to pay me back. I would not want to have an asset-based lending outlook, because I am in the business of making money on interest and fees, not on foreclosures.

Banks here that do asset-based lending typically have the infamous "red book/document" - the red deed book issued by the government and used to confirm use rights or ownership of property - as collateral. With local property price declines, and more importantly, an illiquid market, these asset backed loans quickly devolve into NPLs.

A reason for the rudimentary credit system here is a lack of credit ratings agencies. There is no such thing as a FICO score, so effectively most (all?) individuals and businesses are subprime borrowers. The indifferent legal environment makes it easy for borrowers to stiff the lenders - at worst, the borrower would walk away from an underwater property, and that action has little impact on their ability to get a subsequent loan from another bank using a different piece of collateral.

As the saying goes in the US, 'if you owe the bank a million dollars , it is your problem; if you owe the bank a billion dollars, it is their problem.'  The same is true in Vietnam, except you replace "dollars" with "dong" - and a billion dong is low barrier, so the banks are holding a lot of problems.

But I am an optimist, and I see good things going forward for the Vietnamese economy and like elsewhere, as an economy improves the financial sector will lead the gains. It's just that the American financial sector will make more gains in the near future. So why deal with the Vietnamese issues?

Thursday, October 02, 2008

TIps for Vietnam Travel

As my days invariably wind down here, I've accumulated a bunch of (ok, a smidge of) local knowledge, with no avenue to apply it.  May as well throw it up on the blog for others to use.

But before reading the below, head over to Miss.Adventure's Guide to Living in Vietnam. This blogger just recently concluded her time as an expat in Vietnam, but the archives are informative.  

Anyhow, here's what I would add:

Money/Exchange Rates:

One tip for establishments where they allow you to pay in VND or USD - ask what the exchange rate is. And then decide, 'ok, if I were to sell USD today, would I sell my dollars for that much in VND?' It makes the decision to pay in VND or USD much easier, as I'm generally confused if it is a good thing or a bad thing if the exchange rate is 15,900 versus 17,900 (answer: it depends on what currency you have in your pockets).

Weather:

I know some people say that it actually gets cold in Vietnam, but my experience has not borne it out. Lived in Hanoi for an entire year, and I'm coming up to an entire year in Saigon as well. It does get slightly chilly in the fall/winter in Hanoi, but one can venture about in shorts and tshirts still, even if one does not feature the obligatory Northern American layer of organic insulation.

When folks say that Saigon is rainy, well, that they are correct on. It rained like a mother late summer to early fall this year. I mean, crazy amounts that kept me cooped up inside.

Travel/Immigration/Customs;

The in-bound customs officers are really anal about you bringing in laptops. HCMC's customs folks seem to be more difficult than their Hanoi brethren.

Recently I travelled abroad with two laptops, and then returned with two laptops. And they wanted me to pay customs duties on the second laptop. This is after I had paid fees to bring in these laptops the first time, although those monies didn't end up in the government's coffers, as detailed here.

My obstinance prevailed, and I didn't pay anything; the customs folk made me write onto the customs declaration form that I brought in two computers, and warning me that I will have to take with me two computers when I next leave the country, or else I would have to pay duties then.  

Let me back up and explain the customs process. Upon entering Vietnam, the flight attendants will give you a two part white customs form (for foreign passport holders). You declare items you are bringing in and the like, just like other countries. Upon landing, at passport control, they review your customs declaration, stamp one side of the form, keep the stamped part and then return to you the unstamped part. When you collect baggage and leave the airport, the x-ray your baggage, reconfirm the customs form, stamp it and return it to you. When you next leave the country, you are required to submit this customs form that you are required to keep all this time.

So instead of paying more duties, I wrote down that I have two computers on the customs document, and they allowed me to leave. I don't plan to leave with two computers and, because this is Vietnam, I don't plan to be required to pay any duties upon leaving.

First off, the customs guys were lazy and didn't stamp the part I kept. Second, Hanoi is much more lax with the customs procedures than HCMC. When I flew in and out of Hanoi, I never returned the second part of my form upon exit of the country, because I didn't know it was a requirement. They just give you a new form to fill out. These forms are lying around all over the place in Noi Bai airport.

Long story short, I got myself a blank form and will give the customs folks an unadulterated declaration statement upon leaving - if they complain about the lack of an official stamp, well, the explanation that it was never stamped by the lazy customs officers will be readily accepted, because they know that such lack of rigor is common.

The tip is, when you fly into the country, grab extra blank custom forms from the flight crew. Just tell them you made a typo on your form. Then keep it handy, just to have options. You know, just in case you need to forge shit.

If I really wanted to import shit, not get caught by customs and sell under the radar, I would bring in wristwatches. Vietnamese people are bling'n ballers yo, you can easily unload watches costing tens of thousands here.  I cannot think of a more gauche manner to launder money in Vietnam.     

Monday, August 11, 2008

Soft Shell Crabs at Quan 94

I was seeking something new to eat the other week, so I heeded advice from the Gastronomer on the blog gas•tron•o•my.


This place is betwixt District 1 and District 3 - it seems like all the decent, everyday-eatery type of places are in District 3. They are certainly few and far between in D1, which is unfortunate, because that is where I tend to pound the pavement.


The restaurant is one of those typical open-front deals - you don't sit on the street, but it's open to the street and the ventilation consists of fans only. This place also sports the modern "open" kitchen concept.


The main thing on offer is crab - and it's quite popular. I was here for a late lunch on a weekday and the place was nicely filled with local folks and family. Locals are not known for late weekday lunches - late weekday coffee is more popular - so filling the joint during this time period is rare.


The above is a crab-and-shrimp glass noodle dish. Prices have gone up since Gastronomer's writeup in the local expat magazines.. I think it is 70k now. Still quite the bargain because there is more seafood than noodles in the dish.


The main course for me was the soft shell crabs - I ordered the tamarind ones.  You can't really see it under all those onions though.  Pretty good, tart and sour.  About 70-80k also.  So similarly priced to that soft shell crab place in District 1, but this joint is more down home and therefore tastes better.


Too bad the Gastronomy blog will see its author head back to the States - I guess I'll just have to cull the archives for more suggestions.    

Wednesday, April 02, 2008

Blogroll: Orangwutang

Orangwutang, a blog by a former EPA lawyer now legal instructor at RMIT in HCMC.  

Thursday, March 27, 2008

Blogroll: Food Blogger Gastronomy

I was looking to find some Singaporean Chicken Rice (aka Hainanese Chicken Rice - originating from Hai Nan island (PRC) which is like a 2 hour boat ride from Hai Phong).

In Hanoi, we get this from the restaurant Tiffin in the Fortuna Hotel on Lang Ha - I'm sure there are cheaper and better local joints dotted around the Fortuna that serves chicken rice, but there's something to be said about the familiar.  

A google search got me a review of a Singaporean place in HCMC that serves this, and a review to boot, off the food blogger Gastronomy.  So if you bored of the Hanoi pho stall reviews on Sticky Rice, check Gastronomy out.      

Friday, February 22, 2008

Authentic Eats

This funny blog, Stuff White People Like, recently posted entry #71 - Being the only white person around. You hear this quite a bit in expat circles in foreign locales, such as Vietnam, generally as it relates to food joints. 

Seems like a lot of food places get raves by the internet (and hence by English writing reviewers...) based on how 'local' or 'authentic' it is - with commendations directly proportional to the chance of one picking up cholera.

I try not to eat Vietnamese food when I'm back in the States, for obvious 'I have the cow back in Hanoi reasons,' but I have to note that the best banh mi sandwich I've had in the past year was here in the DC area.  And a friend took me to a Vietnamese noodle shop in Northern Virginia where I had some mighty fine Bun Bo Hue.  Some of the best Vietnamese food in the world is in Vietnamese American enclaves in the States - of course you're mostly limited to Southern Vietnamese food, but for the most part it's better than the 'real thing.'  As all foodies would attest, it's all 'bout the quality of one's ingredients.

One dish that I've really taken a liking to, and not available in the States, is Bun Cha - the Northern compatriot to the South's Bun Thit Nuong.  Now that's worth the cholera!    

Thursday, December 06, 2007

Turning Vietnamese

A Brazilian keeper is renouncing his citizenship to apply for a Vietnamese passport, in order to play on the national team. First the WTO, then the Security Council, now Brazilians want to be Vietnamese. These are interesting times..

Here's an F430 on the streets of HCMC. Dang. This was taken by the blogger 'lilmissmeg' at LiveJournal, the now Russian internet company. Found her blog through SaigonNezumi, who commented on some less than savory things she's written about the local populace. I'm more interested in the car than the commentary. So, if you own this thing, give me a lift going 3 kph, will ya?

Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Blogroll - Innocents Abroad

It's been a while since I've updated the blogroll - mostly because I just stuck interesting blogs into Google Reader and ignored the right hand side of this blog.

Stomping around Kevin's (SaigonNezumi) blogroll, I visited Innocents Abroad, a couple of expats in Hanoi that I've emailed, but never met or read their postings.

Here's a funny posting about their nice to look at but unlivable former digs. I have a theory on the stinky bathroom phenomena in Vietnam, but I'll write about that later.

Wednesday, January 10, 2007

A Brief Reversion

This is for VA, more than anyone, because she enjoys Mark's writings. HanoiMark recently dipped back into the Hanoi ether, if only for a short breath. He's recounting it now at Six Months in Hanoi.

Saturday, December 30, 2006

Blogroll - In With The Old

When I first starting thinking about relocating to VN, I read a bunch of blogs on the subject. Some of them seemed so popular that I didn't think about sticking them on the blogroll. But posting about them will help me find the blogs when I become forgetful again.

Dreaming of Hanoi: by Preya, a third culture kid (TCK) who grew up in Hanoi. Currently snowed in around Denver, CO somewhere. Her recent post, The Many Faces of Hanoi Ex-Pats, is a funny read.

Teresa and the Kids: single mother and her two tweenagers packing things up to head to Vietnam on a two month volunteer stint. They just landed in Hanoi. The main site gives you more info nad the chance to donate towards their efforts.

Wednesday, November 15, 2006

Blogroll - Gamers, Doctors, Techies oh my!

Here are a few more bloggers, mostly found through Technorati, giving a wider array of expat experiences:

AznGamerBoi: twentysomething Flipino who's working in the nascent Vina mmorpg industry, at VinaGames, natch. Located in Saigon.

Real Life Online: twentysomething Flipina who was recruited to VinaGames by her friend, above.

Hanjie: a doctor or medical researcher who is (was?) in Saigon on a technical assistance / research basis.

Some Like it Scott: a graphics artist and designer in Saigon who's helping to further the fashion industry.

SaigonNezumi: a Linux head who is involved in, among other things, the financial sector.

Monday, November 06, 2006

Blogroll - OpenBlogthropology

OpenBlogthropology: an anthropologist of some sort, or maybe that's just his avocation, who reads the daily newspaper in Vietnamese (wish I could do that). And he's not a VK either.

He's based in Hanoi and makes mention of his wife, who goes by VA as well.

Here's a sample (from this post):
It's funny because you can't buy much stuff for the motorbikes in department stores the way you can in the hardware sections of those stores in the US. I guess here it's so cheap that most people have other people do all the maintenance for them, but I like doing the small things myself, it builds the relationship between the person and the machine. Otherwise, you're just an observer.
That can be an allegory on experiencing Vietnam, and of life itself.

Tuesday, October 24, 2006

Blogroll - Xe Om, Cyclo

Xe-Om, Cyclo, Etc: written by AMadBrownWoman, who's tongue-in-cheek avatar stands in for a Filipina woman living in HCMC aka Saigon. A sample post is this one, reflecting on her clothes shopping experience and the exasperation felt by many expats, and more acutely by women, of being called "mập" by the locals.

Tuesday, October 17, 2006

Blogroll - Hanoi Life

Hanoi Life: here's a blog by an older American couple, Ira and Carol, originially from the Northeast, I think, who are in Hanoi. She's involved with music at UNIS while he's a self-described, or at least described by his wife, as a bon-vivant. They are in year two of their Vietnam experience - year one is at their Hanoi Journal blog.

What makes their experience unique from other expat experiences? Well, let them tell you about it in the post titled "Why is our life different from all other lives?"

Sunday, October 08, 2006

Blogroll - ThirstyThong

Here's another one:

thirstythong: not exactly NSFW, this blog is written by three two SF Bay area Viet Kieu - two guys one girl - who are in HCMC. An example of their writing is this post titled Nước Ngon (literally: tasty water), delving a bit into the concept and meaning behind the term mất nước (literal: losing water; conceptually: losing one's roots).

Saturday, October 07, 2006

Blogroll - Part 2

Instead of just adding folks to my blogroll on the right, I thought I should give a short (on occasion, perhaps inaccurate) synopsis of the blogs I've added. Here are two three for today:

iCambo: written by a male Cambodian university student who's studying in Hanoi. Vietnam through the eyes of a non-western expat.

My Vietnam Experience
: written by a midwestern (?) American female, who's over in Hanoi doing some work that is related to her Mennonite church, I think.

Mejuju: written by a Californian Viet Kieu female in Hanoi. Hosted on the very popular-among-Asian-Americans Xanga.com.

Some of the older Hanoi (english-language) bloggers are putting down their digital pens as they're leaving town. Hopefully these, and other, blogs will fill the void.

Wednesday, August 23, 2006

Business Blogs

Updated to the right are some business related blogs for the region. Check them out, and if you know of others, do tell via the comments.

Technorati Profile

Tuesday, June 13, 2006

Background info via Blogs

Here's some background reading on the state of Vietnam in 2006:

Noodlepie (southern Vietnam - read Saigon/HCMC - food blog)
StickyRice (northern Vietnam - read Hanoi - food blog)
VietnameseGod (blog by a Vietnamese in the hospitality industry)
Down and Out in Saigon (American ex-pat in HCMC, teaching English)
Hanoi Days (American ex-pat in Hanoi, working at a Vietnamese newspaper)

There are quite a few others, obviously, but this gives you the flavor of the ex-pat [for the nephews, that is shorthand for "ex-patriot" - no, not an American deemed an enemy combatant by Bush, but a general term for any foreigner who comes to a country, say Vietnam, and lives and works there for a period of time] experience.

For those who are bewildered by the cost of food and other consumer items mentioned in the blogs above, this calculator provides a handy resource. The currency in Vietnam is the Dong (yeah, it's kinda funny Freddy Smoot), and is abbreviated as VND. At the current exchange rates, $63 U.S. Dollars (USD) would be slightly over $1 million VND.