- Kevin at SaigonNezumni - hurry before he becomes the test case as the first expat blogger arrested by Vietnamese authorities.
- Thirsty at his wordpress Thirsty Thongs - he promises to start up again after I leave.
- Preya at Dreaming of Hanoi / Preyanka - in Bangkok, Thailand and optimistic now that her guy, Obama, won.
- Liz at Stateless and Aimless - new at this blogging thing, also in Thailand but upcountry.
Saturday, November 15, 2008
I'm Audi 5000
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
Subprime Problem in Vietnam?
As an inveterate New Yorker, some of those ideas have been of the illegal kind - such as taking advantage of all the young local idiots who have no concept of online fraud and therefore they post their personal information and bank account numbers (!) all over the internet. But thankfully I'm preoccupied with morals to proceed any further.
Given the current world economic climate, I've pondered a bit about the problems in the US (Overselling the Subprime Problem, Market Meltdown Hysteria), which, for all intents and purposes is a confidence issue. Banks do not trust each other, so they do not lend to one another = no money sloshing through the system to lubricate the economic engine. All this talk of doom and gloom in the US is fun and games, sorta like the perverse pleasure of picking at a scab, but optimism will prevail as more people will make more money selling optimism. I'm confident enough to have recently put my 2 cents behind XLF - check back in 6 months to see how that goes.
Spurred on after reading B. Hawkins Pham's post, "The New Look of Saigon," on Saigon Blues, I thought more about why at this point I'm not as optimistic in Vietnam. There are a host of reasons, the main one being that the down global market, and in particular the down US market, makes Vietnam comparatively less compelling. Life is relative, and so are economic opportunities.
As part of the doom-and-gloom trade, business commentators in the US are quick to cite thing such as the WSJ's estimate that 1-in-6 homeowners are underwater (i.e. owe more on the mortgage than the current fair market value of the house). While this is certainly not a good thing, is this really that bad? Surely, housing occupies a certain mindspace for housing consumers - likely a combination of being the largest purchase, the largest asset, the largest debt for the average person - it is still a purchase.
As long as folks can make payments, being underwater affects their psyche, but it does not mean that everyone will suddenly become homeless. "Underwater" - sounds scary and threatening, and meant to evoke the idea of drowning, but for nearly all purchases on credit you will be underwater.
Did you just buy an iPhone with a Visa card, or that shiny new aluminum Macbook? Guess what, you're underwater. Does that matter to you in that setting? No, not really. So too housing.
But that's not to say there are no issues here. As a relatively closed economy, Vietnam is not directly affected by the supposed US Subprime issue because banks here did not buy US debt and derivative instruments. The effect is an indirect one, caused by lowered FDI commitments and, more importantly, lowered actual FDI inflows.
But the banks here have a Vietnamese style subprime problem - that of non-performing loans (NPLs). The credit system here is relatively rudimentary and is based more on an antiquated asset-based lending standard than a modern cashflow-based lending standard.
If I was a lender, I would favor the cashflow outlook, because at the end of the day I want to know if you'll have the money to pay me back. I would not want to have an asset-based lending outlook, because I am in the business of making money on interest and fees, not on foreclosures.
Banks here that do asset-based lending typically have the infamous "red book/document" - the red deed book issued by the government and used to confirm use rights or ownership of property - as collateral. With local property price declines, and more importantly, an illiquid market, these asset backed loans quickly devolve into NPLs.
A reason for the rudimentary credit system here is a lack of credit ratings agencies. There is no such thing as a FICO score, so effectively most (all?) individuals and businesses are subprime borrowers. The indifferent legal environment makes it easy for borrowers to stiff the lenders - at worst, the borrower would walk away from an underwater property, and that action has little impact on their ability to get a subsequent loan from another bank using a different piece of collateral.
As the saying goes in the US, 'if you owe the bank a million dollars , it is your problem; if you owe the bank a billion dollars, it is their problem.' The same is true in Vietnam, except you replace "dollars" with "dong" - and a billion dong is low barrier, so the banks are holding a lot of problems.
But I am an optimist, and I see good things going forward for the Vietnamese economy and like elsewhere, as an economy improves the financial sector will lead the gains. It's just that the American financial sector will make more gains in the near future. So why deal with the Vietnamese issues?
Thursday, October 02, 2008
TIps for Vietnam Travel
Money/Exchange Rates:
One tip for establishments where they allow you to pay in VND or USD - ask what the exchange rate is. And then decide, 'ok, if I were to sell USD today, would I sell my dollars for that much in VND?' It makes the decision to pay in VND or USD much easier, as I'm generally confused if it is a good thing or a bad thing if the exchange rate is 15,900 versus 17,900 (answer: it depends on what currency you have in your pockets).
Weather:
I know some people say that it actually gets cold in Vietnam, but my experience has not borne it out. Lived in Hanoi for an entire year, and I'm coming up to an entire year in Saigon as well. It does get slightly chilly in the fall/winter in Hanoi, but one can venture about in shorts and tshirts still, even if one does not feature the obligatory Northern American layer of organic insulation.
When folks say that Saigon is rainy, well, that they are correct on. It rained like a mother late summer to early fall this year. I mean, crazy amounts that kept me cooped up inside.
Travel/Immigration/Customs;
The in-bound customs officers are really anal about you bringing in laptops. HCMC's customs folks seem to be more difficult than their Hanoi brethren.
Recently I travelled abroad with two laptops, and then returned with two laptops. And they wanted me to pay customs duties on the second laptop. This is after I had paid fees to bring in these laptops the first time, although those monies didn't end up in the government's coffers, as detailed here.
My obstinance prevailed, and I didn't pay anything; the customs folk made me write onto the customs declaration form that I brought in two computers, and warning me that I will have to take with me two computers when I next leave the country, or else I would have to pay duties then.
Let me back up and explain the customs process. Upon entering Vietnam, the flight attendants will give you a two part white customs form (for foreign passport holders). You declare items you are bringing in and the like, just like other countries. Upon landing, at passport control, they review your customs declaration, stamp one side of the form, keep the stamped part and then return to you the unstamped part. When you collect baggage and leave the airport, the x-ray your baggage, reconfirm the customs form, stamp it and return it to you. When you next leave the country, you are required to submit this customs form that you are required to keep all this time.
So instead of paying more duties, I wrote down that I have two computers on the customs document, and they allowed me to leave. I don't plan to leave with two computers and, because this is Vietnam, I don't plan to be required to pay any duties upon leaving.
First off, the customs guys were lazy and didn't stamp the part I kept. Second, Hanoi is much more lax with the customs procedures than HCMC. When I flew in and out of Hanoi, I never returned the second part of my form upon exit of the country, because I didn't know it was a requirement. They just give you a new form to fill out. These forms are lying around all over the place in Noi Bai airport.
Long story short, I got myself a blank form and will give the customs folks an unadulterated declaration statement upon leaving - if they complain about the lack of an official stamp, well, the explanation that it was never stamped by the lazy customs officers will be readily accepted, because they know that such lack of rigor is common.
The tip is, when you fly into the country, grab extra blank custom forms from the flight crew. Just tell them you made a typo on your form. Then keep it handy, just to have options. You know, just in case you need to forge shit.
If I really wanted to import shit, not get caught by customs and sell under the radar, I would bring in wristwatches. Vietnamese people are bling'n ballers yo, you can easily unload watches costing tens of thousands here. I cannot think of a more gauche manner to launder money in Vietnam.
Monday, August 11, 2008
Soft Shell Crabs at Quan 94
I was seeking something new to eat the other week, so I heeded advice from the Gastronomer on the blog gas•tron•o•my.
This place is betwixt District 1 and District 3 - it seems like all the decent, everyday-eatery type of places are in District 3. They are certainly few and far between in D1, which is unfortunate, because that is where I tend to pound the pavement.
The restaurant is one of those typical open-front deals - you don't sit on the street, but it's open to the street and the ventilation consists of fans only. This place also sports the modern "open" kitchen concept.
The main thing on offer is crab - and it's quite popular. I was here for a late lunch on a weekday and the place was nicely filled with local folks and family. Locals are not known for late weekday lunches - late weekday coffee is more popular - so filling the joint during this time period is rare.
The above is a crab-and-shrimp glass noodle dish. Prices have gone up since Gastronomer's writeup in the local expat magazines.. I think it is 70k now. Still quite the bargain because there is more seafood than noodles in the dish.
The main course for me was the soft shell crabs - I ordered the tamarind ones. You can't really see it under all those onions though. Pretty good, tart and sour. About 70-80k also. So similarly priced to that soft shell crab place in District 1, but this joint is more down home and therefore tastes better.
Too bad the Gastronomy blog will see its author head back to the States - I guess I'll just have to cull the archives for more suggestions.
Wednesday, April 02, 2008
Blogroll: Orangwutang
Thursday, March 27, 2008
Blogroll: Food Blogger Gastronomy
Friday, February 22, 2008
Authentic Eats
Thursday, December 06, 2007
Turning Vietnamese
A Brazilian keeper is renouncing his citizenship to apply for a Vietnamese passport, in order to play on the national team. First the WTO, then the Security Council, now Brazilians want to be Vietnamese. These are interesting times..
Here's an F430 on the streets of HCMC. Dang. This was taken by the blogger 'lilmissmeg' at LiveJournal, the now Russian internet company. Found her blog through SaigonNezumi, who commented on some less than savory things she's written about the local populace. I'm more interested in the car than the commentary. So, if you own this thing, give me a lift going 3 kph, will ya?
Wednesday, June 13, 2007
Blogroll - Innocents Abroad
Stomping around Kevin's (SaigonNezumi) blogroll, I visited Innocents Abroad, a couple of expats in Hanoi that I've emailed, but never met or read their postings.
Here's a funny posting about their nice to look at but unlivable former digs. I have a theory on the stinky bathroom phenomena in Vietnam, but I'll write about that later.
Wednesday, January 10, 2007
A Brief Reversion
Saturday, December 30, 2006
Blogroll - In With The Old
Dreaming of Hanoi: by Preya, a third culture kid (TCK) who grew up in Hanoi. Currently snowed in around Denver, CO somewhere. Her recent post, The Many Faces of Hanoi Ex-Pats, is a funny read.
Teresa and the Kids: single mother and her two tweenagers packing things up to head to Vietnam on a two month volunteer stint. They just landed in Hanoi. The main site gives you more info nad the chance to donate towards their efforts.
Wednesday, November 15, 2006
Blogroll - Gamers, Doctors, Techies oh my!
AznGamerBoi: twentysomething Flipino who's working in the nascent Vina mmorpg industry, at VinaGames, natch. Located in Saigon.
Real Life Online: twentysomething Flipina who was recruited to VinaGames by her friend, above.
Hanjie: a doctor or medical researcher who is (was?) in Saigon on a technical assistance / research basis.
Some Like it Scott: a graphics artist and designer in Saigon who's helping to further the fashion industry.
SaigonNezumi: a Linux head who is involved in, among other things, the financial sector.
Monday, November 06, 2006
Blogroll - OpenBlogthropology
He's based in Hanoi and makes mention of his wife, who goes by VA as well.
Here's a sample (from this post):
It's funny because you can't buy much stuff for the motorbikes in department stores the way you can in the hardware sections of those stores in the US. I guess here it's so cheap that most people have other people do all the maintenance for them, but I like doing the small things myself, it builds the relationship between the person and the machine. Otherwise, you're just an observer.That can be an allegory on experiencing Vietnam, and of life itself.
Tuesday, October 24, 2006
Blogroll - Xe Om, Cyclo
Tuesday, October 17, 2006
Blogroll - Hanoi Life
What makes their experience unique from other expat experiences? Well, let them tell you about it in the post titled "Why is our life different from all other lives?"
Sunday, October 08, 2006
Blogroll - ThirstyThong
thirstythong: not exactly NSFW, this blog is written by
Saturday, October 07, 2006
Blogroll - Part 2
iCambo: written by a male Cambodian university student who's studying in Hanoi. Vietnam through the eyes of a non-western expat.
My Vietnam Experience: written by a midwestern (?) American female, who's over in Hanoi doing some work that is related to her Mennonite church, I think.
Mejuju: written by a Californian Viet Kieu female in Hanoi. Hosted on the very popular-among-Asian-Americans Xanga.com.
Some of the older Hanoi (english-language) bloggers are putting down their digital pens as they're leaving town. Hopefully these, and other, blogs will fill the void.
Wednesday, August 23, 2006
Business Blogs
Technorati Profile
Tuesday, June 13, 2006
Background info via Blogs
Noodlepie (southern Vietnam - read Saigon/HCMC - food blog)
StickyRice (northern Vietnam - read Hanoi - food blog)
VietnameseGod (blog by a Vietnamese in the hospitality industry)
Down and Out in Saigon (American ex-pat in HCMC, teaching English)
Hanoi Days (American ex-pat in Hanoi, working at a Vietnamese newspaper)
There are quite a few others, obviously, but this gives you the flavor of the ex-pat [for the nephews, that is shorthand for "ex-patriot" - no, not an American deemed an enemy combatant by Bush, but a general term for any foreigner who comes to a country, say Vietnam, and lives and works there for a period of time] experience.
For those who are bewildered by the cost of food and other consumer items mentioned in the blogs above, this calculator provides a handy resource. The currency in Vietnam is the Dong (yeah, it's kinda funny Freddy Smoot), and is abbreviated as VND. At the current exchange rates, $63 U.S. Dollars (USD) would be slightly over $1 million VND.